|
|
LAKE KA-GE-NO-GUM-AUG.--At nine in the morning, we embarked on
the lake in four canoes, having left the fifth at the other end of
the portage for the La Pointe Indians to return. Two of the flotilla
of canoes were occupied by the military under Lieut. Clary. After
proceeding a little, less than two hours through a very irregular,
elongated, and romantic lake, we reached a portage in the direction
of the Namakagun, fork of the St. Croix River. Its waters were
clear; we observed fish and ducks. This portage is called Mikenok,
or the Turtle. It proved to be two hundred and eighty yards to a
pond, or small lake, named Turtle Lake. About two hundred yards of
this portage lies over a dry pine ridge, the remainder bog. On
crossing this little sheet, we encountered another portage of one
thousand and seventy-five yards, terminating at a second lake named
Clary's Lake. This portage lies over an open pine ridge, from which
the timber has been chiefly burned. The shrubs and plants are young
bush poplars, whortleberries, shad-bush, brake and sweet fern. Both
ends of it are skirted with bog. The highest grounds exhibit
boulders. About five o'clock the canoes came up, and we embarked on
the lake and crossed it, and, striking the portage path, went four
hundred and seventy-five yards to a third lake, called Polyganum,
from the abundance of plant. We crossed this and encamped on its
border.
This frequent shifting and changing of baggage and canoes exhausted
the men, who have not yet recovered from the toils of the long
portage. Three of them were disabled from wounds or bruises. Laporte,
the eldest man of our party, fell with a heavy load, on the great
Wunnegum portage, and drove a small knot into his scalp. The doctor
bandaged it, and wondered why he had not fractured his skull. Yet
the old man's voyageur pride would not permit him to lie idle. If he
died under the carrying-strap, he was determined to die game.
NAMAKAGUN RIVER.--Early on the 27th we were astir, and followed the
path 1050 yards, which we made in two pauses to the banks of
the Namakagun River, the most southerly fork of the St. Croix. We
were now on the waters tributary to the Mississippi, and sat down to
our breakfast of fried pork and tea with exultation.
Dead pines cover the ground between Lake Polyganum and the Namakagun.
A great fire appears to have raged here formerly, destroying
thousands of acres of the most thrifty and tall pines. Nobody can
estimate the extent of this destruction. The plain is now grown up
with poplar, hazle-bush, scrub-oak, and whortleberry. The river,
where the portage strikes it, is about seventy-five feet wide, and
shallow, the deepest parts not exceeding eighteen inches. It is
bordered on the opposite side with large pines, hardwood, and
spruce. Observed amygdaloid under foot among the granite, and
sandstone boulders.
About one o'clock the baggage and canoes had all come up, and we
embarked on the waters of the Namakagun. Rapids soon obstructed our
descent. At these it was necessary for the men to get out and lift
the canoes. It was soon necessary for us to get out ourselves and
walk in the bed of the stream. It was at last found necessary to
throw overboard the kegs of pork, &c., and let them float down. This
they would not do without men to guide them and roll them along in
bad places. Some of the bags from the canoes were next obliged to be
put on men's shoulders to be carried down stream over the worst
shallows. After proceeding in this way probably six or seven miles,
we encamped at half-past seven o'clock. Mr. Johnston, with his
canoe, did not come up. We fired guns to apprize him of our place of
encampment, but received no reply. There had been partial showers
during the day, and the weather was dark and gloomy. It rained hard
during the night. Our canoes were badly injured, the bark peeling
off the bows and bottoms. The men had not yet had time to recover
from their bruises on the great Wannegum portage. Mr. Clary had shot
some ducks and pigeons, on which, at his invitation, we made our
evening repast, with coffee, an article which he had among his
stores. Some of the men had also caught trout--this fish being
abundant here, though it never descends into the Mississippi.
On the next morning I sent a small canoe (Clary's) to aid Johnston.
Found him with his canoe broke. Brought down part of his loading,
and dispatched the canoe back again. By eleven o'clock the canoe
returned on her second trip. Finding the difficulties so great, put
six kegs of pork, seven bags of flour, one keg of salt, &c., in
depot. One of the greatest embarrassments in passing among such
impoverished tribes is the necessity of taking along extra
provisions to meet the various bands and to pay for their contingent
services.
PUCKWAEWA VILLAGE.---At four o'clock we had got everything down the
shallows, mended our canoe, and reached the Pukwaewa--a noted
Indian village, where we encamped. The distance is about nine miles
from the western terminus of the portage, course W.S.W. We found it
completely deserted, according to the custom of the Indians, who
after planting their gardens, leave them to go on their summer
hunts, eating berries, &c. We found eight large permanent bark
lodges, with fields of corn, potatoes, pumpkins, and beans, in fine
condition. The lodges were carefully closed, and the grounds and
paths around cleanly swept, giving the premises a neat air. The corn
fields were partially or lightly fenced. The corn was in tassel. The
pumpkins partly grown, the beans fit for boiling. The whole
appearance of thrift and industry was pleasing.
I sent two canoes immediately up stream, to bring down the stores
put in deposit. I arranged things for taking a canoe elege on
the next day, and proceeding rapidly down the river to its junction
with the main St. Croix and Yellow River, in order to meet my
engagements, made by a runner from La Pointe. I took along Dr.
Houghton and Mr. Johnston, leaving the heavy baggage in charge of
Mr. Woolsey, with directions to accompany Lieut. Clary across the
portage from the Namakagun to Ottowa Lake. It was half-past five on
the morning of the 29th, when, bidding adieu to Lieut. Clary and Mr.
Woolsey, we embarked.
A NEW SPECIES OF NATIVE FRUIT.--In coming down the Namakagun, we
found a species of the currant on its banks--the albinervum.
It was fully ripe, and of delicious taste.
Incidents on the Namakagun, its Birds, Plants, &c.--About ten
o'clock we entered and passed an expansion, having deserted Indian
lodges, and a high wooden cross on the south bank. Hence we called
it the Lake of the Cross. It is called Pukwaewa by the Indians. A
little below we met the chief Pukquamoo, and his band, returning to
the upper village. Held a conference with him on the water on the
subject of my mission and movements. He appeared, not only by his
village, which we had inspected, but by his words, eminently
pacific. On parting he reciprocated my presents by some dried
whortleberries. At this conference with the Red-headed Woodpecker
chief, I requested him to go up and aid Mr. Woolsey in bringing down
the baggage and provisions, and wrote to Mr. Woolsey accordingly.
About four o'clock the chief of this party hailed us from shore,
having headed us by taking a short land route from the Lake of the
Cross. He sought more perfect information on some points, which was
given, and he was requested to attend the general council appointed
to be held at Lac Courtorielle (Ottawa Lake). We continued
the descent till eight o'clock P.M., having descended about
thirty-five miles.
On the 30th we embarked at five in the morning, and reached the
contemplated portage to Ottawa Lake at seven. I stopped, and having
written notes for Lieut. Clary and Mr. Woolsey, put them in the end
of a split pole, according to the Indian method. At ten I landed for
breakfast with my canoe badly broken, and the corn, &c., wetted.
Detained till twelve. Near night met a band of Chippewas ascending.
Got a canoe from them to proceed to Yellow River, and, after
dividing the baggage and provisions, put Mr. Johnston with two men
in it. This facilitated our descent, as we had found frequent
shallows, in consequence of low water, to impede our progress. Yet
our estimate for the day's travel is forty miles.
The cicuta is a frequent plant on this river; we found the fox grape
this afternoon nearly ripe. Both banks of the river are literally
covered with the ripe whortleberry--it is large and delicious. The
Indians feast on it. Thousands on thousands of bushels of this fruit
could be gathered with little labor. It is seen in the dried state
at every lodge. All the careful Indian housewives dry it. It is used
as a seasoning to soups.
On the 31st we were on the water at six A.M. Soon passed seven
Indians in canoes, to whom a passing salute of a few words and
tobacco were given. We landed at ten to breakfast. The current had
now augmented so as to be very strong, and permit the full force of
the paddles. Stopped a few moments at a Chippewa camp to get out
some tobacco, and, leaving Mr. Johnston to make the necessary
inquiries and give the necessary information, pushed on. Heard T.,
our Indian messenger from La Pointe, had accomplished his business
and gone back four days ago, Indian conferences now succeeded each
other continually, at distances from one to five miles. The bands
are now on the move, returning up the river to their spring villages
at the Little and Great Rice Places (this is the meaning of
Pukwaewau), and the Lake of the Cross. Their first request is
tobacco, although they are half starved, and have lived on nothing
but whortleberries for weeks. "Suguswau, let us smoke," is
the first expression.
The country as we descend assumes more the appearance of upland
prairie, from the repeated burnings of the forest. The effect is,
nearly all the small trees have been consumed, and grass has taken
their place. One result of this is, the deer are drawn up from the
more open parts of the Mississippi, to follow the advance of the
prairie and open lands towards Lake Superior. The moose is also an
inhabitant of the Namakagun. The Chippewas, at a hunting camp we
passed yesterday, said they had been on the tracks of a moose, but
lost them in high brush. Ducks and pigeons appear common. Among
smaller birds are the blackbird, robin, catbird, red-headed
woodpecker, kingfisher, kingbird, plover and yellow-hammer.
We frequently passed the figure of a man, drawn on a blazed pine,
with horns, giving the idea of an evil spirit. The occiput of the
bear, and head bones of other animals killed in the chase, are hung
upon poles at the water's side, with some ideographic signs. The
antlers of the deer are conspicuous. Other marks of success in
hunting are left on trees, so that those Indians who pass and are
acquainted with the signs, obtain a species of information. The want
of letters is thus, in a manner, supplied by signs and pictographic
symbols.
Late in the afternoon we passed the inlet of the Totogun--one of the
principal forks of the Namakagun. The name is indicative of its
origin. Totosh is the female breast. This term is rendered
geographical by exchanging sh for gun. It describes a
peculiar kind of soft or dancing bog. Soon after, we broke our
canoe--stopped three-fourths of an hour to mend it--reached the
forks of the St. Croix directly after, passed down the main channel
about nine miles, and encamped a little below Pine River. We built
ten fires to keep off the mosquitoes, and put our tent and
cooking-fire in the centre. It rained during the night.
The next morning (Aug. 1st) we reached the Yellow River, and found
the chiefs Kabamappa, Bwoinace, and their bands awaiting my arrival.
This site includes some historical
materials that may imply negative stereotypes reflecting the culture or language
of a particular period or place. These items are presented as part of the
historical record and should not be interpreted to mean that the WebMasters in
any way endorse the stereotypes implied.
Personal Memoirs of a Residence of Thirty Years with the
Indian Tribes on the American Frontiers, 1851
Previous | Thirty
Years with the Indians
|
