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Sit down to write an account of the mines--Medical properties of
the Mississippi water--Expedition to the Yellow Stone--Resolve to
visit Washington with a plan of managing the mines--Descend the
river from St. Genevieve to New Orleans--Incidents of the trip--Take
passage in a ship for New York--Reception with my collection
there--Publish my memoir on the mines, and proceed with it to
Washington--Result of my plan--Appointed geologist and mineralogist
on an expedition to the sources of the Mississippi.
1819. I now sat down to draw up a description of the mine country
and its various mineral resources. Having finished my expedition to
the south, I felt a strong desire to extend my observations up the
Mississippi to St. Anthony's Falls, and into the copper-bearing
regions of that latitude. Immediately I wrote to the Hon. J.B.
Thomas, of Illinois, the only gentleman I knew at Washington, on the
subject, giving him a brief description of my expedition into the
Ozarks. I did not know that another movement, in a far distant
region, was then on foot for exploring the same latitudes, with
which it was my fortune eventually to be connected. I allude to the
expedition from Detroit in 1820, under General Cass.
I had, at this time, personally visited every mine or digging of
consequence in the Missouri country, and had traced its geological
relations into Arkansas. I was engaged on this paper assiduously.
When it was finished, I read it to persons well acquainted with the
region, and sought opportunities of personal criticism upon it.
The months of February and March had now glided away. Too close a
confinement to my room, however, affected my health. The great
change of life from camping out, and the rough scenes of the forest,
could not fail to disturb the functional secretions. An obstruction
of the liver developed itself in a decided case of jaundice. After
the usual remedies, I made a journey from Potosi to the Mississippi
River, for the purpose of ascending that stream on a barge, in order
that I might be compelled to drink its turbid, but healthy waters,
and partake again of something like field fare. The experiment
succeeded.
The trip had the desired effect, and I returned in a short time from
St. Louis to Mine au Breton in completely restored health.
At Herculaneum, I was introduced to Major Stephen H. Long, of the
United States Topographical Engineers, who was now on his way, in
the small steamer Western Pioneer, up the Missouri to the Yellow
Stone. I went on board the boat and was also introduced to Mr. Say,
the entomologist and conchologist, Mr. Jessup the geologist, and
other gentlemen composing the scientific corps.
This expedition was the first evidence to my mind of the United
States Government turning attention, in connection with practical
objects, to matters of science, and the effort was due, I
understand, to the enlightened mind of Mr. Calhoun, then Secretary
of War.
It occurred tome, after my return to Potosi, that the subject of the
mines which I had been inquiring about, so far as relates to their
management as a part of the public domain, was one that belonged
properly to the United States Government; Missouri was but a
territory having only inchoate rights. The whole mineral domain was
held, in fee, by the General Government, and whatever irregularity
had been seen about the collections of rents, &c., constituted a
question which Congress could only solve. I determined to visit
Washington, and lay the subject before the President. As soon as I
had made this determination, everything bowed to this idea. I made a
rapid visit, on horseback, to St. Louis, with my manuscript, to
consult a friend, who entirely concurred in this view. If the mines
were ever to be put on a proper basis, and the public to derive a
benefit from them, the government must do it.
As soon as I returned to Potosi, I packed my collection of
mineralogy, &c. I ordered the boxes by the lead teams to St.
Genevieve. I went to the same point myself, and, taking passage in
the new steamer "St. Louis," descended the Mississippi to New
Orleans. The trip occupied some days. I repassed the junction of the
Ohio with deep interest. It is not only the importance of
geographical events that impresses us. The nature of the phenomena
is often of the highest moral moment.
An interesting incident occurred as soon as I got on board the
steamer. The captain handed me a letter. I opened it, and found it
to contain money from the secretary of a secret society. I was
surprised at such an occurrence, but I confess not displeased. I had
kept my pecuniary affairs to myself. My wardrobe and baggage were
such as everywhere to make a respectable appearance. If I economized
in travel and outlay, I possessed the dignity of keeping my own
secret. One night, as I lay sleepless in a dark but double-bedded
room, an old gentleman--a disbanded officer, I think, whose health
disturbed his repose--began a conversation of a peculiar kind, and
asked me whether I was not a Freemason. Darkness, and the distance I
was from him, induced a studiedly cautious reply. But a denouement
the next day followed. This incident was the only explanation the
unwonted and wholly unexpected remittance admitted. A stranger,
traveling to a southern and sickly city to embark for a distant
State, perhaps never to return--the act appeared to me one of pure
benevolence, and it reveals a trait which should wipe away many an
error of judgment or feeling.
The voyage down this stream was an exciting one, and replete with
novel scenes and incidents. The portion of the river above the mouth
of the Ohio, which it had taken me twenty days to ascend in a barge,
we were not forty-eight hours in descending. Trees, points of land,
islands, every physical object on shore, we rushed by with a
velocity that left but vague and indistinct impressions. We seemed
floating, as it were, on the waters of chaos, where mud, trees,
boats, were carried along swiftly by the current, without any
additional impulse of a steam-engine, puffing itself off at every
stroke of the piston. The whole voyage to New Orleans had some
analogy to the recollection of a gay dream, in which objects were
recollected as a long line of loosely-connected panoramic fragments.
At New Orleans, where I remained several days, I took passage in the
brig Arethusa, Captain H. Leslie, for New York.
While at anchor at the Balize, we were one night under apprehensions
from pirates, but the night passed away without any attack. The mud
and alluvial drift of the Mississippi extend many leagues into the
gulf. It was evident that the whole delta had been formed by the
deposits made in the course of ages. Buried trees, and other forms
of organic life, which have been disinterred from the banks of the
river, as high, not only as New Orleans and Natchez, but to the
mouth of the Ohio, show this. It must be evident to every one who
takes the trouble to examine the phenomena, that an arm of the gulf
anciently extended to this point; and that the Ohio, the Arkansas,
Red River, and other tributaries of the present day, as well as the
main Mississippi, had at that epoch entered this ancient arm of the
gulf. I landed at the light-house at the Balize. We had to walk on
planks supported by stakes in the water. A sea of waving grass rose
above the liquid plain, and extended as far as the eye could reach.
About twelve or fourteen inches depth of water spread over the land.
A light-house of brick or stone, formerly built on this mud plain,
east of the main pass, had partially sunk, and hung in a diagonal
line to the horizon, reminding the spectator of the insecurity of
all solid structures on such a nascent basis. The present
light-house was of wood. It was evident, however, that here were
deposited millions of acres of the richest alluvion on the globe,
and in future times another Holland may be expected to be rescued
from the dominions of the ocean. As we passed out into the gulf,
another evidence of the danger of the channel met our view, in the
wreck of a stranded vessel. The vast stain of mud and alluvial filth
extended for leagues into the gulf. As the vessel began to take the
rise and swell of the sea, I traversed the deck diligently, and, by
dint of perseverance in keeping the deck, escaped sea-sickness. I
had never been at sea before. When the land had vanished at all
points, and there was nothing in sight but deep blue water around us
and a sky above, the scene was truly sublime; there was a mental
reaction, impressing a lesson of the insignificance of man, which I
had never before felt.
We passed the Gulf of Florida, heaving in sight on one side, as we
passed, of the Tortugas, and, on the other, of the Mora Castle of
Havana, after which there was little to be noticed, but changes in
the Gulf Stream, fishes, sea-birds, ships, and the constant
mutations from tempests to the deep blue waters of a calm, till we
hove in sight of the Neversinks, and entered the noble bay of New
York.
It was the third of August when I reached the city, having stayed
out my quarantine faithfully on Staten Island, the mineralogy and
geological structure of which I completely explored during that
period of municipal regimen--for it was the season of yellow fever,
and there was a rigid quarantine. Dr. Dewitt, the health officer,
who had known my father, received me very kindly, and my time wore
off imperceptibly, while I footed its serpentine vales and magnesian
plains.
On reaching the city, I fixed my lodgings at a point on the banks of
the Hudson, or rather at its point of confluence with the noble bay
(71 Courtland), where I could overlook its islands and busy water
craft, ever in motion.
I had now completed, by land and water, a circuit of the Union,
having traveled some 6000 miles. My arrival was opportune. No
traveler of modern times had thrown himself upon the success of his
scientific observations, and I was hailed, by the scientific public,
as the first one who had ever brought a collection of the mineral
productions of the Mississippi Valley. My collection, which was
large and splendid, was the means of introducing me to men of
science at New York and elsewhere. Dr. Samuel L. Mitchell and Dr. D.
Hosack, who were then in the zenith of their fame, cordially
received me. The natural sciences were then chiefly in the hands of
physicians, and there was scarcely a man of note in these
departments of inquiry who was not soon numbered among my
acquaintances. Dr. John Torrey was then a young man, who had just
published his first botanical work. Dr. A.W. Ives warmly interested
himself in my behalf, and I had literary friends on every side.
Among these Gov. De Witt Clinton was prominent.
I had fixed my lodgings where the Hudson River, and the noble bay of
New York and its islands, were in full view from my window. Here I
opened my collection, and invited men of science to view it, I put
to press my observations on the mines and physical geography of the
West. I also wrote a letter on its resources, which was published by
the Corresponding Association of Internal Improvements, The Lyceum
of Natural History, and the Historical Society, each admitted me to
membership. My work was published about the 25th of November. As
soon as it was announced, I took copies of it, and proceeded to
Washington, where I was favorably received. I lost no time in
calling on Mr. Monroe, and the Secretaries of War and of the
Treasury. Mr. Monroe took up his commonplace-book, and made
memorandums of my statements respecting the mines. Mr. Calhoun
received me cordially, and said that the jurisdiction of the mines
was not in his department. But he had received a memoir from General
Cass, Governor of Michigan, proposing to explore the sources of the
Mississippi, through the Lakes, and suggesting that a naturalist,
conversant with mineralogy, should accompany him, to inquire into
the supposed value of the Lake Superior copper mines. He tendered me
the place, and stated the compensation. The latter was small, but
the situation appeared to me to be one which was not to be
overlooked. I accepted it. It seemed to be the bottom step in a
ladder which I ought to climb. Small events, it has been said, lead
a man, and decide his course in life; and whether this step was
important in mine, may be better judged of, perhaps, when these
notes shall have been read.
In the mean time, while I accepted this place, the subject of the
management and superintendence of the western mines appeared to be
fully appreciated by Mr. Calhoun and Mr. Crawford, the latter of
whom requested a written statement on the subject; and it was held
for further consideration1. I found during this, my first visit to
the capital, that the intelligence of my favorable reception at New
York, and of my tour in the West, had preceded me. Friends appeared,
of whom, at this distance of time, I may name the Vice-President, D.D. Tompkins, Judge Smith Thompson, of the Supreme Court, Colonel
Benton, Senator elect from Missouri, Hon. John Scott, the delegate,
Hon. Jesse B. Thomas, Senator from Illinois, John D. Dickinson,
Esq., Representative from Troy, N.Y., Hon. Josiah Meigs,
Commissioner of the General Land Office, Gen. Sol. Van Rensselaer,
and Dr. Darlington, Rep. from Pennsylvania. To each of these, I have
ever supposed myself to be under obligations for aiding me in my
object of exploration, and I certainly was for civilities and
attentions.
Mr. Calhoun addressed a letter to Governor Cass, of Michigan, and I
proceeded immediately to the North, to be ready to avail myself of
the first opportunity of ascending the lakes to the place of
departure.
1: This effort became the cause of the government
finally taking definite action on the subject. Mr. Monroe presented
it to the consideration of Congress in the fall, and a
superintendent was subsequently appointed.
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Personal Memoirs of a Residence of Thirty Years with the
Indian Tribes on the American Frontiers, 1851
Thirty
Years with the Indians
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