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Descent of the Mississippi River, from Itasca Lake to Cass
Lake--Traits of its bank--Kabika Falls--Upsetting of a canoe--River
descends by steps, and through narrow rocky passes--Portage to the
source of the Crow-Wing River--Moss Lake--Shiba Lake--Leech Lake--Warpool
Lake--Long Lake Mountain portage--Kaginogomanug--Vermilion Lake--Ossawa
Lake-Shell River--Leaf River--Long Prairie River--Kioskk, or Gull
River--Arrival at its mouth--Descent to the Falls of St. Anthony,
and St. Peter's--Return to St. Mary's.
1832, July 14th. I found the outlet of Itasca Lake to be
about twelve feet wide, and some twelve to fourteen inches deep. The
water is of crystal purity, and the current very rapid. We were
urged along with great velocity. It required incessant vigilance on
the part of the men to prevent our frail vessels from being dashed
against boulders. For about twelve miles the channel was not only
narrow, but exceedingly crooked. Often, where the water was most
deep and rapid, it did not appear to exceed ten feet in width. Trees
which had fallen from the banks required, sometimes, to be cut away
to allow the canoes to pass, and it required unceasing vigilance to
avoid piles of drifted wood or boulders. As we were borne along in
vessels of bark, not more than one-eighth of an inch thick, a
failure to fend off, or hit the proper guiding point, in any one
place, would have been fraught with instant destruction. And we sat
in a perfect excitement during this distance. The stream then
deployed, for a distance of some eight miles, into a savannah or
plain, with narrow grassy borders in which its width was doubled,
its depth decreased, and the current less furious. We went through
these windings with more assurance and composure. It was one of the
minor plateaux in which this stream descends. The channel then
narrowed and deepened itself for another plunge, and soon brought us
to the top of the Kabika Palls. This pass, as the name imports, is a
cascade over rocks. The river is pent up, between opposing trap
rock, which are not over ten feet apart. Its depth is about four
feet, and velocity perfectly furious. It is not impossible to
descend it, as there is no abrupt pitch, but such a trial would seem
next to madness. We made a portage with our canoes of about a
quarter of a mile across a peninsula, and embarked again at the foot
of the falls, where the stream again expands to more than double its
former width, and the scenery assumes a milder aspect. It is another
plateau.
Daylight had departed when we encamped on a high sandy bank on the
left shore. We were perfectly exhausted with labor, and the
thrilling excitement of the day. It seemed, while flying through its
furious passes, as if this stream was impatient for its development,
and, like an unrestrained youth, was bent on overthrowing every
obstacle, on the instant, that opposed its advance and expansion. A
war horse could not have been more impatient to rush on to his
destiny.
We were in motion again in our canoes at five o'clock the next
morning. At an early hour my Indian guide landed to fire at some
deer. He could not, however, get close enough to make an effectual
shot. Before the animals were, however, out of range, he loaded,
without wadding, and fired again, but also without effect. After
passing a third plateau through which the river winds, with grassy
borders, we found it once more to contract for another descent,
which we made without leaving our canoes, not, however, without
imminent peril and loss. Lieut. Allen had halted to make some
observations, when his men incautiously failed for a moment to keep
his canoe direct in the current. The moment it assumed a transverse
position, which they attempted to fix by grasping some bushes on the
opposite bank, the water dashed over the gunwales, and swept all to
the bottom. He succeeded in gaining his feet, though the current was
waist high, and recovered his fowling piece, but irretrievably lost
his canoe-compass, a nautical balanced instrument, and everything
besides. Fortunately I had a fine small land-compass, which Gen.
Macomb had presented to the late John Johnston, Esq., of St. Mary's,
many years before, and thus I measurably repaired his loss. On
descending this channel, the river again displayed itself in
savannas, and assumed a width which it afterwards maintained, and
lost its savage ferocity of current, though still strong.
On this plateau, the river receiving on its left the War River, or
Piniddiwin (the term has relation to the mangled flesh of those
slain in battle), a considerable stream, at the mouth of which the
Indian reed first shows itself. We had, the day previous, noticed
the Chemaun, or Canoe River, tributary from the right bank. Minor
tributaries were not noticed. The volume of water was manifestly
increased from various sources. At a spot where we landed, as
evening came on, we observed a species of striped lizard, which our
guide called Okautekinabic, which signifies legged-snake. Various
species of the duck and other water fowl were almost continually in
sight. We reached the junction of the Plantagenet Fork about one
o'clock at night (15th), and rapidly passing the Irving and
Cross-water Lakes, descended to Cass Lake, reaching our encampment
at nine o'clock in the morning.
A day's rest restored the party from its fatigues, and we set out at
ten o'clock the following day (16th) for Leech Lake, by the overland
route. Two hours rowing brought us to a fine sandy beach at the head
of a bay, which was named Pike's Bay, from Lieut. Pike having
approached from this direction in the winter of 1806. Here the
baggage and canoes were prepared for a portage. A walk of nine
hundred and fifty yards, through open pine forest, brought us to the
banks of Moss Lake, which we passed in canoes. A portage of about
two miles and a-half was now made to the banks of a small lake,
which, as I heard no name for it, was called Shiba, from the
initials of the names of the five gentlemen of the party1.
This lake has an outlet into a large stream, which the Pillager
Chippewas call Kapuka Sagitawag. It was nearly dark when we embarked
on this stream, which soon led, by a very narrow and winding
channel, into the main river. Pushing on, we reached and crossed an
arm of the lake to the principal Indian village of Guelle Plat,
Leech Lake, which we reached at ten o'clock at night.
The next day (17th) was passed in council with them, till late in
the afternoon, when I embarked, and went a couple of leagues to
encamp, in order to rid myself fully of the village throng, and be
ready for an early start in the morning. It was my determination to
pass inland south-westerly by an Indian trail, so as to strike the
source of the Crow Wing or De Corbeau River, one of the great
tributaries of the Mississippi which remained unexplored.
We found the entrance to this portage early the next morning (18th).
After following the trail about three-fourths of a mile we reached
and crossed a small lake called Warpool. A small and intricate
outlet led successively to Little Long Lake, the Two Lakes, and the
Lake of the Mountain. Here commenced a highland portage of over 900
yards to the Lake of the Island--another portage of some 2000 yards
was then made to Midlake, and finally another of one puggidenun,
partly through a bog, but terminating on elevated grounds at the
head of a considerable and handsome body of water called
Kaginogamaug, or The Long Water. This is the source of the De
Corbeau River, and here we encamped for the night. We had how
crossed the summit between Leech Lake and the source of the Crow
Wing River. We commenced the descent on the morning of the 19th, and
passed successively through eleven lakes, connected by a series of
short channels. The names of these in their order, are Kaginogamaug,
Little Vermilion, Birch, Ple, Assawa, Vieu Desert, Summit, Longrice,
Allen's, Johnston's, and Kaitchibo Sagitawa. Two tributary streams
enter the river in this distance, the principal of which is Shell
River; the stream assumes an ample size, and there is no further
apprehension of shallows. Next day (20th) we passed the influx of
six rivers, the largest of which is Leaf River, coming in from the
West. The channel has now attained a bold and sweeping force. It
required part of another day to reach its mouth, in the course of
which it is joined by the Long Prairie River from the right, and the
Kioshk or Gall River from the left. An alluvial island, with a heavy
forest, exists at the point of its confluence with the Mississippi
River. We encamped at the Pierced Prairie, eighteen miles below the
junction, and were less than two days in a high state of the water,
in reaching St. Anthony's falls.
24th. I arrived at St. Peter's about two o'clock in the
afternoon, and entered and encamped on the open common on the banks
of the river. The Indian agent (Mr. Tallieferro) was absent. I found
Captain Jouett in command of the fort, and in charge of Indian
affairs. He received me in a cordial manner, and offered every
facility in his power to effect the objects of my mission among the
hostile tribes. No recent news from the seat of operation against
the Black Hawk and his adherents was known. Recent details were,
however, imprecise. Captain Jouett had kept up, I think, the mail
communication with Prairie du Chien, by a canoe sent once a
fortnight. The murder of St. Vrain, the events on the Rock River
with the Illinois militia, and the movements on foot to chastise the
hostile Sauks and Foxes, were among the latest items of
intelligence. But nothing was known of the actual position of the
Black Hawk and his followers. My determinations, therefore, as to
the route to be pursued, in returning home, were made in entire
ignorance of the fact, that at that time, the Black Hawk had been
driven before Gens. Atkinson and Dodge to the banks of the
Mississippi, at the mouth of the Badaxe River--where he completely
intercepted all communication between the posts of St. Peter's and
Prairie du Chien.
25th. I held a council with the Sioux at the Agency
Buildings; at which the tribe disclaimed, by their speakers, having
any connection with the Sauk and Fox league, or having permitted any
of their warriors to join in it. They professed a readiness to
furnish warriors to aid the government in suppressing it.
On returning to my tent, I sat down and wrote to the editor of a
Western paper, as follows:--
ST. PETERS, July 25th, 1882.
SIR:--I arrived at this place yesterday, from an expedition through
the Chippewa country on the sources of the Mississippi, accompanied
by a detachment of troops under Lieut. Allen of the 5th Infantry. I
have traced this river to its actual source. On reaching the point
to which it had been formerly explored, I found the water in a
favorable state for ascending; and I availed myself of this
circumstance to carry into effect the desire of visiting its actual
source, a point which has continued to be problematical in our
geography. Pike placed it at Leech Lake in 1806. Gov. Cass carried
it much further north, and left it at Upper Red Cedar Lake in 1820.
But it was then ascertained that its sources were considerably north
and west of that lake, which is in lat. 47 deg. 25'. I encamped the
expedition, the troops and heavy baggage, at this lake, and
proceeded up the river in five small birch canoes, capable of
containing one man and his bed, in addition to the Indian and
Canadian who conducted it. The Mississippi expands into several
lakes, the largest of which is called Lac Traverse. A few miles
above this occurs the junction of its south-west and north-west
branch. The former I called the Plantagenet, and ascended it through
La Salle, Marquette, and Assawa Lakes to a small creek at the foot
of the Hauteur des Terres. From this point a portage was made over
difficult ascents, and through defiles for about six miles, when we
reached the banks of Itasca Lake, the source of the other and longer
branch. To this point we transported our canoes and baggage. It is a
most beautiful and clear lake, about seven miles long, and lying
somewhat in the shape of a y. I found an island in it, upon which I
landed and encamped, and, after causing some trees to be felled,
hoisted the United States flag. I left this flag flying, and
returned down the Itascan branch to my starting point.
I found the Indians friendly, and having no apparent connection with
the movements of Black Hawk, although they are subject to an
unpropitious influence from the Hudson's Bay Company, the agents of
which allure them to carry their trade into that province. The
American traders complain of this with great reason. Many of the
Chippewas visit the British posts in Canada, and their old
prejudices are kept alive in various ways; but I was everywhere
received with amity and respect.
26th. Having concluded my affairs at St, Peters, I determined
to return to the basin of Lake Superior, by ascending the river St.
Croix to its source, and passing across the portage of the Misakoda,
or Burntwood River, into the Fond du Lac Bay. This I accomplished
with great toil, owing to the low state of the water, in ten days;
and, after spending ten days more in traversing the lengthened
shores and bays of Lake Superior from La Pointe, returned to
Sault St. Marie on the 14th of August.
Aug. 15th. I had now accomplished the discovery of the true
source of the Mississippi River--and settled a problem which has so
long remained a subject of uncertainty in the geography of this
celebrated river. If De Soto began it (and of this there seems
little question, for Narvaez perished before reaching it), and
Marquette and Joliet continued it; if Hennepin and Pike and Cass
carried these explorations higher, I, at least, went to its remoter
points, and thence traced the river to its primary forks--ascended
the one, crossed the heights of Itasca to the other, and descended
the latter in its whole length. This has been done in a quiet way,
without heralding or noise, but under the orders and at the expense
of the United States.
1: Schoolcraft, Houghton, Johnston, Boutwell,
Allen.
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Personal Memoirs of a Residence of Thirty Years with the
Indian Tribes on the American Frontiers, 1851
Thirty
Years with the Indians
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